I Will Visit Your Grave When I Go to Iraq – The New York Times
Iraqis have been protesting since early October against the dysfunctional and corrupt political system installed by the United States after the 2003 occupation. Unlike previous waves of protests that began in 2011, this protest was spontaneous and not organized by any party.
The most common and passionate slogan throughout these protests has been, We want a homeland. It reflected the anger and alienation Iraqis felt toward a political class beholden to external influence (Iran and the United States) and oblivious to its peoples demands.
The regimes brutal suppression and killing of peaceful protesters fueled Iraqis anger, widening and intensifying the protests and strikes across Iraq. It also radicalized the tone and demands of protesters who have been calling for an overhaul of the entire system, rather than cosmetic change. The resignation of Prime Minister Adil Abdul-Mahdi on Nov. 29 did nothing to quiet the protesters. And the regimes violence continues unabated.
More than 500 protesters have been killed. I try to find out their names and catch a glimpse of their faces. I cant keep up. Death seizes them in a flash and delivers their bodies to the darkness of the grave. But it also illuminates their names, faces and life stories, making them ever more familiar to those of us who are viscerally connected to Iraq, whether we live there or in a distant country.
I did know Safa al-Sarray, a 26-year-old aspiring poet and amateur artist, very well. He wrote to me nine years ago on social media about one of my novels. We kept corresponding. I loved his wit and sense of humor, and his insightful posts about life and politics in Iraq.
Safa was a precocious, passionate young man and a voracious reader, particularly of poetry. He grew up in a large working-class family in Baghdad. His father had died when he was quite young. He worked hard three days a week as a construction worker and porter while studying at the University of Technology in Baghdad to make ends meet and to support his family.
In 2011, a wave of protests against the corruption and sectarianism of the Iraqi regime swept through the country. Safa, who was 18 at the time, joined his compatriots seeking change. He was at the forefront of every single wave of protests in the years that followed. Despite being harassed and detained several times, he would be back on the street for the next protest.
I worried about him and would check on him every time protests broke out to make sure he was safe. We are staying here in Tahrir, he would write, referring to Tahrir Square in central Baghdad, where the protesters have been gathering. He knew the dangers he faced. He once wrote to me wondering when he might meet the gratuitous death waiting for me in my homeland. He loved Iraq and would go to sleep at night thinking of what he could do to change it.
I met Safa for the first time in February at the Baghdad Book Fair. He came to my book signing and was as charming and charismatic in person. We met again for breakfast on my last day in Baghdad. Safa had an undergraduate degree in computer networking, but like hundreds of thousands of young Iraqis, he couldnt find employment in his field.
Over breakfast he told me that hed recently started working as an ardhahalchi, or a scribe, writing letters and filling out forms for citizens going before courts. He would set up his chair and table every morning outside a courthouse in Baghdad. Were there any interesting stories that you came across? I asked. It is just a traffic court, he said with a smile. The letters he had to write were quite prosaic, mostly about mundane accidents or transfer of ownership.
Safa was 26, but he was using a cane and grimaced with pain when he moved. He spoke of the pain killers he was taking and the costly physical therapy. During the protests in the summer of 2018 he had received messages on social media from regime thugs warning him to stay away. He ignored them at first. A few days later plainclothes security personnel detained him and tortured him to extract information on other protesters. He said that the memory of his mother, Thanwa, and her strength helped him withstand the pain and remain steadfast in moments of weakness.
He was very close to Thanwa, who died of cancer in 2017, and wrote about her suffering and resilience. He called himself Thanwas Son. Shifting the emphasis away from the patrilineal to the matrilineal was an act of poetic resistance against social norms.
Safa was fiercely independent and critical of the intellectual elite and the media personalities who had betrayed the protesters, hijacked previous protests and made back-room deals with political parties.
He was an aspiring poet, an artist. He donated the money from his art to an orphanage. His heart was a garden for all. I have been thinking of some verses he wrote: Peoples sadness is my sadness/Their feasts are mine/Let the wellspring of my life flow onto their deserts/These flowers in my soul are gardens of people.
When the Iraqi uprising began in October, Safa was at the forefront once again. He recited poetry and urged protesters to remain peaceful but never give up.
On Oct. 28 I messaged Safa: I heard you were injured. Let me know youre O.K. There was no response. A tear-gas canister fired intentionally and directly at the crowds by the riot police had pierced his head while he was protesting peacefully in Tahrir Square. He was taken to the hospital. He died a few hours later. I cried when I saw the footage of his coffin circling the square, surrounded by fellow protesters bidding farewell to a hero.
Some years ago, I wrote a poem about those who die for freedom and justice. I never thought that I was writing it prematurely for my friend.
Martyrs do not go to paradiseThey leaf through the heavenly bookeach in their own wayas a birda staror a cloudThey appear to us every dayand cryfor uswe, who are stillin this hell they tried to extinguishwith their blood.
A few weeks ago, I saw a photograph of a white dove perched on the coffin of one of those murdered by the regime near Tahrir Square. Was that you, Safa?
I will visit your grave when I go to Iraq, but I know that you are not only there. Your face is on so many walls, banners, T-shirts, and your spirit is everywhere. Your brothers and sisters, Thanwas children, are still fighting for the new Iraq you dreamed of and loved.
Sinan Antoon (@sinanantoon) is the author, most recently, of the novel The Book of Collateral Damage.
The Times is committed to publishing a diversity of letters to the editor. Wed like to hear what you think about this or any of our articles. Here are some tips. And heres our email: letters@nytimes.com.
Follow The New York Times Opinion section on Facebook, Twitter (@NYTopinion) and Instagram.
The rest is here:
I Will Visit Your Grave When I Go to Iraq - The New York Times
- Iraqi Military Forces Capacity in the Wake of a Likely U.S. Withdrawal from Iraq - New Lines Institute - April 25th, 2025 [April 25th, 2025]
- Returning from the Middle East, Michael Baumgartner reflects on Iraq's progress since he left in 2008 - The Spokesman-Review - April 25th, 2025 [April 25th, 2025]
- So was Poland a sucker when it supported the US in Iraq? - The Hill - April 25th, 2025 [April 25th, 2025]
- Iraq says Pope Francis' calls for coexistence 'will leave an indelible impact' - NPR - April 25th, 2025 [April 25th, 2025]
- Turkiye expands military occupation of northern Iraq: Report - thecradle.co - April 25th, 2025 [April 25th, 2025]
- JJs Star Spangled Salute: A Kansas Veteran On The Frontlines In Iraq - 101.3 KFDI - April 25th, 2025 [April 25th, 2025]
- Whats missing from Alex Garlands Iraq movie Warfare? Context, motivation and, for the most part, Iraqis - The Guardian - April 25th, 2025 [April 25th, 2025]
- In pictures: Easter celebrated around the world from Greece to Iraq - BBC - April 25th, 2025 [April 25th, 2025]
- Hemorrhagic Fever Death Toll Rises to Four in Iraq, Health Ministry Confirms - kurdistan24.net - April 25th, 2025 [April 25th, 2025]
- Iraq veteran and film-maker Ray Mendoza: Writing Warfare with Alex Garland was like going to a therapist - The Guardian - April 25th, 2025 [April 25th, 2025]
- French FM visits Iraq as part of regional tour to prepare for Palestine conference - The Arab Weekly - April 25th, 2025 [April 25th, 2025]
- Warfare review nerve-shredding real-time Iraq war film drags you into visceral frontline combat - The Guardian - April 25th, 2025 [April 25th, 2025]
- 'Warfare': The true story behind Ray Mendoza's Iraq War movie - USA Today - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- Warfare brings realistic carnage of Iraq War to theaters - Military Times - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- Why a Navy SEAL Vet Relived His Iraq War 'Nightmare' to Make the Harrowing Movie Warfare (Exclusive) - People.com - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- Is Warfare Fact or Fiction? Inside the Real-Life Iraq War Mission That Inspired the Shocking Movie - People.com - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- 'Warfare': The True Story Behind Iraq War Mission Gone Wrong - Men's Health - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- Global agriculture index: Iraq ranks 109th - Shafaq News - - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- Warfare aims to be the most authentic Iraq War film yet - CNN - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- UNFPA and German Delegation Visit Womens Protection Center in Anbar, Reaffirming Continued Commitment to Womens Empowerment in Iraq [EN/AR] -... - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- Iraq finally confirms parliamentary elections for this November - The New Arab - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- From Artsakh to Iraq: economic blockades as gendered violence - The Armenian Weekly - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- 'Warfare' is based on the true story of a Navy SEAL team that fought in Iraq. The directors made it for a soldier who doesn't remember how he lost a... - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- ICRC in Iraq: Key Figures 2024 [EN/AR/KU] - ReliefWeb - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- Iran defies Trump by arming proxy forces in Iraq with missiles - The Times - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- Alex Garland's Iraq-war film Warfare is visceral, exciting and unethical - CBC - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- How Warfares All-Star Cast Made the Most Intense Iraq War Film Ever - GQ - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- GE Vernova partners with Iraq on 24,000 MW natural gas power project - energynews.pro - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- Al-Sudani in Erbil: Iraq Has Withstood Crises, Now Focused on Stability and Economic Growth - kurdistan24.net - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- Warfare pays tribute to those who served in Iraq War with raw and powerful filmmaking - AZFamily - April 12th, 2025 [April 12th, 2025]
- Exclusive: Iran-backed militias in Iraq ready to disarm to avert Trump wrath - Reuters - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Executions at 10-year high after huge increases in Iran, Iraq and Saudi Arabia - The Guardian - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Why Trump threats have cowed Tehrans axis of resistance in Iraq - The Times - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Iran seeks indirect talks with US, warns Iraq, Kuwait over supporting strikes - Hindustan Times - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Iran-backed militias in Iraq are ready to disarm following Trumps threats - New York Post - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Pro-Iran militias in Iraq mulling disarming under threat of US attack, sources say - The Times of Israel - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Iraq, 2nd top destination of Iranian non-oil goods in a year - Tehran Times - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Iraq calls for meeting to resume negotiations on Kurdistan regional oil exports - Reuters - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Iranian proxies in Iraq willing to disarm to avoid conflict with US, commanders and Iraqi officials say - The Times of Israel - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Exclusive-Iran-backed militias in Iraq ready to disarm to avert Trump wrath - MSN - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Iran's influence in neighboring Iraq is waning - Neue Zrcher Zeitung - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- A man wielding an axe wounds 3 people at the Assyrian Christian new year parade in Iraq - AP News - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Landmines and explosive remnants cast a long shadow over Iraq amid recovery efforts - International Committee of the Red Cross - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Marine writes book aiming to clear his name after bloody Iraq ambush - Marine Corps Times - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Washington halted the Iraq-Iran electricity waiver. Here is how it's perceived by Washington and Baghdad. - Atlantic Council - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- In the minefields of Iraq, Noora works to restore life and hope to her homeland - International Committee of the Red Cross - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Iraq aims to utilize 70% of flared gas by end of 2025 - Iraqi News - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- How Carey Mulligans brother found himself dodging bombs and bullets in Iraq - The Irish News - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Who are the main Iran-backed militias in Iraq? - thenationalnews.com - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Iraq Seizes Over Two Tons of Drugs, Arrests More Than 1,500 Traffickers in Major Crackdown - kurdistan24.net - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- FM Fidan calls on Iraq to confront PKK terror group with same determination shown against Daesh - Trkiye Today - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Iran-backed militias in Iraq ready to disarm to avert Trump wrath - The Japan Times - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Pressured by US, Iraq calls for negotiations on Kurdistan regional oil exports - The Arab Weekly - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- All the Mountains Give review gripping portrait of smugglers on the Iran-Iraq border - The Guardian - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- Iran-Backed Militias In Iraq: American Embassy, Targets In Iraq Will Be Attacked If Iran Attacked - MEMRI | Middle East Media Research Institute - April 8th, 2025 [April 8th, 2025]
- The Real Military History Behind the New Iraq War Film 'Warfare' - Military.com - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- One Photo from Abu Ghraib Lost the Iraq War. Kristi Noem Continues the Tradition - Rolling Stone - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Iraq agrees to supply Lebanon with fuel for six months - Reuters - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Iran Joins Russia, Mexico, Venezuela, Ukraine, North Korea, Belarus, Myanmar, and Iraq as US Issues New Do Not Travel Alert: What You Need to Know -... - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Activation of TIR system in Iraq to boost connectivity and trade across Central Asia, Middle East and Europe - UNECE - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Crafting Warfare: Inside the intense, star-studded film about an Iraq War battle and the Navy SEALs who lived it - Entertainment Weekly - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- UN-Habitat and the Government of Japan Expand Efforts to Support Returnees in Northern Iraq [EN/AR] - ReliefWeb - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Iraq joins TIR transit system - Heavy Lift & Project Forwarding International - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Trkiyes Development Road Project advances toward Iraq and Syria - Trkiye Today - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Iraq Officially Announces Sunday as First Day of Eid Al Fitr - Morocco World News - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Iraq agrees to supply Lebanon with fuel for six months - The New Arab - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Iran committed to implementing agreements with Iraq - - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- The Iraq War lasted nearly 9 years, claiming the lives of almost 4,500 Americans. Hampton Roads ships, planes and troops played important roles. -... - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- PM: Iraq rejects the threats facing the Islamic Republic of Iran - ina.iq - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Palestine keep hopes of first World Cup alive with dramatic Iraq turnaround - Al Jazeera - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Hakim ccalls for Iraq's exemption from sanctions on Iranian gas and electricity imports - Tehran Times - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- 'I know what I'm doing next fall': Disabled Iraq veteran in Star honored with big game hunting tags - KIVI-TV - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Iranian Ambassador To Iraq, Mohammad Kazem Al-Sadegh: If Trump Is Willing To Return To Nuclear Talks We Are Prepared To Do So Following The P5+1... - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- KFC expands in Iraq with tenth location in Baghdad - Iraqi News - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Boosting ties with Iraq help counter enemy plots: Pezeshkian - Tabnak - April 1st, 2025 [April 1st, 2025]
- Iran's MOIS-Linked APT34 Spies on Allies Iraq & Yemen - Dark Reading - March 28th, 2025 [March 28th, 2025]
- Warfare Review: Alex Garlands Iraq War Film Is Full Of Bombastic Aestheticism That Leaves You Feeling Empty - Deadline - March 28th, 2025 [March 28th, 2025]
- Warfare Review: Ray Mendoza and Alex Garlands Harrowing Retelling of an Iraq War Mission - slantmagazine - March 28th, 2025 [March 28th, 2025]
- Alex Garland and Ray Mendozas brutal Iraq film Warfare offers only violence to its detriment - The Independent - March 28th, 2025 [March 28th, 2025]
- Kurds ponder future in Turkey, Syria and Iraq with guarded optimism - South China Morning Post - March 28th, 2025 [March 28th, 2025]