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Gail Pinot Grigio Sonoma Valley Morning Sun Ranch 2018 (13.3%, $25): Pinot Grigio is a punchline in some wine circles, often producing a wine thats bland, insipid and immediately forgettable. Thats what makes winemaker Dan OBriens version, for his Gail Wines label, so cool. Its got all the lightness and brightness that Pinot Grigio should have you could throw it back but its also lush with orchard fruit and a hint of grassiness. Youll love it, and so will your Santa Margherita-drinking aunt.

Irene Chardonnay Sonoma Coast 2017 (13%, $35): Few wine categories are as polarizing as California Chardonnay. You might have a drinker at your table who drinks the oaky, buttery stuff with abandon and another one who wont touch it. This example from Irene, a label owned by husband and wife Brian and Katelynn Jessen, would make a fine peace offering. From a vineyard that gets cool Petaluma Gap winds, their Chardonnay is neither too rich nor too searing, characterized by the bright flavor of lemon zest. Its acidity gives it firm structure, which plays off the wines round shape and lightly chalky texture.

Unti Vermentino Dry Creek Valley 2018 (13.4%, $28): By all means, bring an offbeat white wine to Thanksgiving, but make it a crowd pleaser like Vermentino a grape widely grown around Italys Mediterranean coasts that can retain acidity when grown in warm climates. Untis Vermentino, from its estate outside Healdsburg, proves why more California winemakers are interested in this grape. Its crisp and straightforward (it never sees oak barrels and does not go through malolactic fermentation) but still full of character, juicy with apricot and lemon flavors and intensely floral.

Birichino Saint Georges Pinot Noir Central Coast 2017 (13.5%, $25): Many people consider Pinot Noir especially American Pinot Noir as mandatory at Thanksgiving, given its general friendliness with poultry and autumnal flavors. But there is a lot of American Pinot Noir out there that tastes like candied yams: dominated by the sweet flavors of toasted oak barrels and overripe cherries. Luckily, theres also Pinot Noir from Birichino, a Santa Cruz winery co-owned by John Locke and Alex Krause. Their single-vineyard Pinots are stunning (look for the Enz Vineyard), but the $25 Saint Georges blend is exemplary of their finessed style: crunchy, tart, dynamically textured. Its dark, earthy flavors would play well with stuffing, cranberry sauce and a gravy-dressed slice of turkey. But hold the candied yams.

Trevor Grace Estate Grenache El Dorado County 2017 (14.2%, $30): Increasingly, California Grenache seems to be moving toward two poles: one rich and robust, modeled on Chateauneuf du Pape, the other lean and translucent. Heres an example of a wine that nicely straddles both, from the offshoot label of winemaker Trevor Grace, who also works for his familys Lewis Grace Winery in Placerville. Its got some heft and structure to it while also feeling light on its feet, with velvety tannins and striking flavors of wet stone, orange peel and red currant.

Eden Rift Zinfandel Dickinson Block Cienega Valley 2017 (15.2%, $45): For that relative who wants to maximize his alcohol consumption per sip, heres a wine that packs a serious punch but thank goodness doesnt burn on the finish. The Eden Rift estate in Hollister(San Benito County) is mostly devoted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay but maintains a block of Zinfandel planted in 1906. It smells like acai berries and blueberry pie, with an impression of tart red plum on the palate. Its juicy, tangy and balanced, despite that 15.2% ABV, a perfect bridge between dinner and dessert.

Di Co Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2017 (14.3%, $65): If youve got a family member who wants to drink only Napa Cab and another one who refuses to drink Napa Cab, this is the wine to appease them both. Winemaker Massimo di Costanzo brings a refined touch to the category, and his entry-level Di Co wine is an outrageous value for what it is: single-vineyard Cabernet from 30-year-old vines in the Mount Veeder foothills. The vineyard is called Rafael, and its wine shares the same sense of restraint and structure as di Costanzos higher-end bottlings from the Farella and Montecillo vineyards. The Di Co is both floral and savory, suggesting lavender, pencil lead and dark, crushed berries.

Go here to read the rest:
7 Thanksgiving bottles to tame the wine culture wars - San Francisco Chronicle