The overwhelming majority of Iraqi Kurds want an          independent state.        
    Next month, on September 25, the Kurdistan Regional    Government in Erbil will hold a binding referendum on whether    or not to secede from Iraq. It will almost certainly pass. More    than a decade ago, the Kurds held a non-binding referendum that    passed with 99.8 percent of the vote.  
    No one knows what's going to happen. Iraq is the kind of    place where just about anything can happen and eventually    does.  
    Kurdish secession could go as smoothly as a Scottish    secession from the United Kingdom (were that to actually    happen) or a Quebecois secession from Canada, were that to    actually happen. It could unfold like Kosovo's secession from    Serbia, where some countries recognize it and others don't    while the Serbs are left to stew in their own juices more or    less peaceably.  
    This is a serious business, though, because Iraq is not    Britain, and it is not Canada. And there's a potential    flashpoint that travelers to the region would be well advised    to stay away from for a while.  
    Shortly after ISIS invaded Iraq from Syria in 2014, the    Kurdistan Regional Government     effectively annexed the oil-rich governorate of Kirkuk.    Ethnic Kurds made up a plurality of the population, with    sizeable Arab and Turkmen minorities, before Saddam Hussein's    Arabization program in the 1990s temporarily created an    artificial Arab majority.  
    Since then, Kurds have been returning to the city en    masse while many Arabs, most of whom had no history in the    region before Saddam put them there, have left. No one really    knows what the demographics look like now.  
    It's a tinderbox regardless of the actual headcount. Some    of the Arabs who still live there could mount a rebellion at    some point, either immediately or down the road. If they do,    they might engage in the regional sport of finagling financial    and even military backing from neighboring countries.  
    Then again, Arabs have been trickling north into the    Kurdistan region for years because it's peaceful and quiet and    civilized. It's the one part of Iraq that, despite the local    government's corruption and inability to live up to the    democratic norms it claims to espouse, works remarkably    well.  
    I've been to Iraqi Kurdistan a number of times. It's    safer than Kansas. My only real complaint is that it gets a bit    boring after a while. If you're coming from Baghdad or Mosul,    it's practically Switzerland.  
          Kurdish graffiti on the walls of an Iraqi army base          outside Kirkuk reads, "We will not leave Kirkuk."        
    Kirkuk Governorate, though, isor at least recently    wasanother story. The three "core" Kurdish governoratesDohuk,    Erbil, and Suleimaniyahhave been free of armed conflict since    the toppling of Saddam Hussein, but Kirkuk was down in the war    zone. I went there ten years ago from Suleimaniyah and was only    willing to do so under the    armed protection of Kurdish police officers. Had I wandered    around solo as I did farther north, I would have risked being    shot, kidnapped or car-bombed. I still could have been shot or    car-bombed alongside the police, but at least kidnapping was    (mostly) off the table. The very fact that Kirkuk was a war    zone at a time when the Kurdish governorates to the north were    not suggests that the Kurds may be swallowing more than they    can digest.  
    Kirkuk has oil, though, while the governorates to the    north mostly don't, so of course the Kurds want it. Baghdad, of    course, wants to keep it for the same reason. Will Iraq's    central government go to war over it? Probably not. Saddam    Hussein lost his own war against the Kurds in the north, and he    had far more formidable forces at his disposal than Baghdad    does now. Still, it's more likely than a war between London and    Edinburgh, or between Ottawa and Montreal.  
            The biggest threat to an independent Iraqi Kurdistan            comes not from Baghdad but from Turkey.          
    The biggest threat to an independent Iraqi Kurdistan    comes not from Baghdad but from Turkey. The Turks have been    fighting a low-grade counter-insurgency against the armed    Kurdish separatists of the Kurdistan Workers Party (PKK) since    the 1970s that has killed tens of thousands of people, and    they're deathly afraid that a free and independent Kurdish    state anywhere in the world will both embolden and assist their    internal enemies.  
    While Turkey is no longer likely to invade Iraqi    Kurdistan on general principle if it declares independencea    going concern shortly after the overthrow of Saddam Husseinthe    Turkish government is making it clear that it is supremely    unhappy with the KRG including Kirkuk in its referendum. "What    really concerned us,"     a spokesperson for Turkey's president said in June of this    year, "was that Kurdish leaders want to include Kirkuk in this    process while according to the Iraqi constitution Kirkuk is an    Iraqi city and is not within Kurdish boundaries ... If any    attempts will be made to forcefully include Kirkuk in the    referendum question, problems will be made for Kirkuk and its    surrounding areas."  
    One can sympathize with Turkey's fears. The    Marxist-Leninist Kurdistan Workers Party is, without question,    a terrorist organization. Even so, nations have a right to    exist even if they are inconvenient to Turkeyespecially    considering that Iraq's Kurds are not terrorists.  
            Iraq's Kurds are America's only reliable allies in            the entire country.          
    Rather than terrorists, Iraq's Kurds are America's only    reliable allies in the entire country. They're as pro-American    as Texans; they're the only ones who didn't take shots at us    during and after the overthrow of Saddam; and they were, for a    time anyway, the only ones willing and capable of taking on    ISIS directly and winning. They do not align themselves with    Iranian-backed militias as the central government in Baghdad    does, and they certainly aren't on side with Hezbollah and the    Kremlin like the Syrian government. They are as allergic to    political Islamism as Americans are. They view it, with some    justification, as an alien export from the Arab world.  
        The Trump administration opposes Kurdistan's bid for    independence. It could, says the White House, be    "significantly destabilizing." Perhaps. But it's a bit rich for    Americans, of all people, to say no to people who want to break    away from a country that smothered them beneath a totalitarian    regime, waged a genocidal extermination campaign against them,    and then convulsed in bloody mayhem for more than a    decade.  
            An independent Iraqi Kurdistan is far more likely to            be stable with U.S. backing than without it.          
    We Americans mounted a revolution for our own    independence against a government far more liberal and    enlightened than Iraq's. And we support at least the notion of    a Palestinian state alongside the Israeli state, the only    properly functioning democracy in the entire region, despite    the fact that the Palestinians have mounted one terrorist    campaign after another for their own independence while the    Kurds of Iraq never have.  
    An independent Iraqi Kurdistan is far more likely to be    stable with American backing than without it, but the Kurds are    going forward regardless. As Jack Nicholson's character Frank    Costello said in Martin Scorsese's scorching film, The    Departed, "no one gives it to you. You have to take    it."  
      Michael J. Totten is a contributing editor      at The Tower, a Middle East Forum writing fellow, and      the author of seven books, including       Where the West Ends and       Tower of the Sun.    
    Related Topics: Iraq, Kurds, US policy    | Michael J.    Totten receive the latest by email: subscribe    to the free mef mailing    list  
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